Pattern Resizing

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So you have a pattern and you need to make it in a size that isn’t marked on your pattern pieces. For this project, I had the pattern, but didn’t want to go buy another one just to get one size larger. It’s easier than you think, you just need a little bit of time, a ruler, a pencil (and eraser), and some freezer paper. A french curve helps too.

NOTE: This is not the technique you’d use to “fit” a pattern for a tailored fit (such as slashing/spreading, adding darts, or other modifications). This is strictly for increasing/decreasing size using the same proportions as the original pattern.

Also known as pattern grading, this is a simple way to modify a pattern up (or down) a size. If going down a size, freezer paper is probably not needed, since your markings can go right on the existing pattern piece. Going up/down a size or two is fine, but be cautious about going much more than that, as that may wind up distorting the fit.

To transfer new markings, I just cut some freezer paper and laid my pattern piece on top. Using a ruler, I measured the distance between each of the cutting lines between the existing sizes on the paper. Because I was going up a size, I transferred that distance from the largest cutting line (in this case, a size L) to my freezer paper.

When I got to the armscye curves, I used a french curve to smooth things out. Pay close attention in these areas because the distance between sizes changes quite a bit and it’s important to follow the same distance.

At corners, I used my clear ruler to line up the markings on the existing pattern and extended that line out onto my freezer paper. I did the same for other pattern markings (like notches).

Much to my disbelief, my pattern pieces were perfect! Everything matched up exactly as it should have. Grading the pattern pieces took the most time. Once I had my pieces cut, assembly was a breeze.

So here’s a half-zip sweatshirt I made, complete with fuzzy collar (because I’m cold). I sized this up from a L to XL using this technique and it worked out well. After fitting, I did make some adjustments to the sleeve to make it narrower, and I added thumbholes because I like thumbholes!