Zip Around Case

I decided to teach myself to knit the other day. The jury is still out on whether or not I shall master this new skill, but I needed a place to put my needles. Ok, that’s probably 20% needing somewhere to put these needles and 80% of me saying how about I take a break and do something I know I can do right.

So, here’s a handy zip around case that you can make and alter for whatever your needs are. You could make it into a wallet, add some additional pockets, whatever you want. This version is specifically made to store needles, so that’s what I’ll show in this tutorial.

Materials

• 2 pieces of outer fabric cut 7” x 13”

• 2 pieces of lining fabric cut 7” x 13”

• 2 zipper tabs cut 9” x 1.25” (or width of your zipper tape - mine was 1.25”) - I used outer fabric for both, but you can do 1 lining and 1 outer if you prefer.

• 1 zipper length 28.5” (if you make yours in different dimensions, then you’d have to adjust, you’re on your own for that).

• 1/4” elastic - I cut 4 pieces 7” long

• 2 pieces of fusible fleece interfacing - 7” x 13”

NOTE: I decided to round the corners of my pieces, so I trimmed around each corner of the outer and lining pieces before starting.

Lining

Because my version is going to specifically store needles, I started by fusing the fleece interfacing to the lining pieces.

I then decided where I wanted to place the bottom elastic and used painter’s tape to mark where I wanted the elastic to sit - this was easier to make sure I was able to keep the elastic in place as I sewed the little channels.

On the elastic, I marked dots where I wanted to create the channels for each needle. I varied the distances to account for the different gauge needles.

Then, using a tight zigzag stitch, I sewed the elastic to the lining to create the divisions for each needle’s channel.

Once the bottom was done, I placed the upper piece of elastic and marked dots in the same place as the bottom elastic. I used my new Omnigrip clear acrylic ruler I got for Xmas and I LOVE THIS RULER. It totally doesn’t slip! My fingers are excited at the prospect of me not getting out of control with my rotary cutter when my ruler slips. Plus, I’m low on band-aids.

Anyhoo…repeat for the other side of the lining, placing the elastic where you want it, and using a small zigzag to create the channels.

Zipper

Take the little zipper tab pieces and place the outer piece right side down on the zipper at one end. Place the lining piece underneath, lining up all raw edges. Sew at 1/2”.

Place the remaining raw edge of the zipper tab outer piece right side down on the remaining raw edge of the zipper. Bring the remaining lining piece raw edge and place underneath. This looks a little weird, so make sure the zipper isn’t twisted. To check, clip or pin it and turn it right side out to make sure you have everything correct before sewing.

Sew at 1/2” and turn it right side out. Topstitch both tab ends.

Front & Back to Zipper

On all of the outer and lining pieces, make quarter marks (12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock). I’m having one of those moments where I’m looking at the word “o’clock” so many times over and it looks wrong, but I know it’s right. Whatever.

Do the same with the zipper piece. I prefer to make little scissor clips when I do this, but you could mark with a pen or use pins, whatever floats your boat. If you clip, just make sure you stay well within the seam allowance.

With the zipper right side down, begin clipping (or pinning) it to the right side of the front outer piece. I find it works best to start with each quarter mark, then deal with the long sides, and then the corners.

Front outer clipped to the zipper

At the corners, clip into the zipper tape to help it turn the corners. Again, be sure you stay within the seam allowance - which in my case will be the width of my zipper foot, which I believe to be 3/8” or so.

Sew all around, taking care to work the zipper tape neatly around the curves.

Find the lining piece that will go on the back of the front and clip it in place. However, this time you’ll leave a gap on one of the long sides for turning. I chose to leave the gap on the side opposite the zipper tab.

Front lining panel clipped to the zipper

Sew around. Take care at the curves to make sure the zipper lays flat and you don’t sew through the zipper teeth.

Before turning, you may want to trim down the seam allowances. However, don’t trim the seam allowance on the side that was left open. That should be left alone to make sure you have enough fabric to work with when closing it up. Turn it right side out and leave the gaping hole open. This will be closed in final topstitching.

Front piece turned right side out

Repeat for the back outer piece and lining. However, be sure that before you sew on the lining piece, the zipper is open at least half way. I put the zipper pull in the gap area of the lining so I wouldn’t have to fiddle with moving it out of the way as I sewed.

Clip the front piece to keep it out of the way when attaching the back

If desired, trim the seam allowances (except for the edge with the gap). Turn the whole thing right side out and take the time to get all the corners poked out nice and neat.

Front and back attached and turned right side out

Topstitch

After turning out and working out the corners, lay it down flat. If using fabric that can be pressed, do that now. I used Ottertex, which doesn’t respond well to ironing, so I just finger pressed it as best I could.

For those gaping holes, turn under the seam allowance and use some clips or pins to hold it in place. Be sure that you’ve lined up the lining to ensure you actually catch it in the bottom stitches when you topstitch it. Give it a topstitch around both panels (front and back). Fill with whatever and zip ‘er up, it’s done.

Finished and topstitched

I guess now I have to go back to my sad attempt at knitting!